Two days in Autun: a complete itinerary

Set at the gateway to the Morvan Regional Nature Park, Autun carries more than two thousand years of history in its Roman remains and medieval streets. Whether you come for the architecture or for the countryside around it, two days is enough to see the town properly without rushing.

Two days in Autun: history and countryside

Founded in 15 BC by the Emperor Augustus, Autun is one of the more rewarding stops for anyone travelling in Burgundy. Two days lets you take in a town that concentrates Roman engineering, Romanesque art and open country within a very small radius.

This itinerary is built to make the most of the time. The first day covers the town itself, where almost every street reveals another layer of its past. The second heads out into the hills, to the Celtic site of Bibracte and the trails of the Morvan.

For anyone who likes both museums and walking, the combination works unusually well. The landscape here, shaped by the Arroux valley and the wooded slopes above it, gives the old town a setting that most Roman sites simply do not have. It also makes Autun worth visiting in any season.

Day 1: Roman and medieval Autun

The first day is about the foundations of the town, moving between ancient engineering and the refinement of Romanesque art.

Morning: the remains of Roman Augustodunum

Start with the ancient town. Autun keeps monumental remains that reflect its old status as the sister and rival of Rome. Begin with the Roman theatre, which was among the largest in the Roman world and held some 20,000 spectators. Our full guide to Autun covers the detail if you want to go deeper.

Continue to the fortified gates that once marked the entrances to the town. The Porte d'Arroux to the north and the Porte Saint-André to the east still stand nearly 20 metres high, with arcades that give a clear sense of the scale the Romans were working at.

Outside the old walls, two archaeological sites are worth the detour:

• The Temple of Janus: a 24-metre cult tower, all that remains of a large Gallo-Roman sanctuary dedicated to local deities.

• The Pierre de Couhard: an enigmatic funerary pyramid, 33 metres high, standing above the town.

Because these monuments sit within a short radius, the morning works well entirely on foot, and gives you a real feel for how rigorously the first-century town was laid out. There is more to do if you have longer.

Afternoon: Saint-Lazare Cathedral and the old town

The afternoon belongs to the upper town, the heart of medieval Autun. Its centrepiece is Saint-Lazare Cathedral, consecrated in 1130. A major work of Burgundian Romanesque art, it is known worldwide for the carved tympanum above its west door, one of the most remarkable pieces of twelfth-century sculpture anywhere in France.

Around the cathedral, the upper quarters form a maze of narrow streets lined with timber-framed houses. It is in this historic centre that you will find Maison Constant, a Palladian-inspired house set in its own wooded park, a few minutes from the cathedral on foot.

Finish the day at the Musée Rolin, housed in the former mansion of Chancellor Nicolas Rolin. Its collections hold thousands of pieces, including the Bellerophon mosaic and an important collection of Romanesque sculpture. Note that it is currently closed for renovation, so check before you go. The other museums in Autun are worth a look in the meantime.

A summary of the first day's sites, with suggested timings:

Monument	Period	Main feature	Suggested visit
Roman theatre	1st century	Capacity of 20,000 spectators	45 minutes
Porte d'Arroux and Porte Saint-André	1st century	Defensive architecture, 20 m high	30 minutes
Temple of Janus	1st century	24-metre cult tower	20 minutes
Saint-Lazare Cathedral	12th century	Romanesque tympanum	1 hour
Musée Rolin	15th century mansion	Bellerophon mosaic, Romanesque sculpture	1 hour 30

Day 2: Bibracte and the Morvan

After the town, the second day takes you up into the wooded hills, for Celtic history and open country.

Morning: the Gauls at Bibracte and Mont Beuvray

Leave the Autun basin for the heights of the Morvan. About 25 kilometres west, Mont Beuvray rises to 821 metres. This is the site of Bibracte, the ancient capital of the Aedui, and one of the most significant Celtic sites in Europe. It pairs naturally with a stay in the Morvan.

The visit has two parts:

• The site museum: a contemporary building presenting more than 2,000 objects from the excavations, covering Gallic town planning, craft and daily life in the first century BC.

• The archaeological trail: a walk across the plateau, through the ramparts and the excavated quarters, with wide views over the Morvan.

This is where Vercingetorix was proclaimed leader of the Gallic coalition in 52 BC, which gives the place a particular weight. Allow around three hours for the museum and the site together.

Afternoon: outdoors in the Morvan

The afternoon is for the countryside. The Morvan Regional Nature Park, the green lung of this part of Burgundy, offers an extensive network of waymarked paths and clear lakes, none of it far from Autun.

Cyclists have hundreds of kilometres of mountain bike circuits and traffic-free greenways to choose from, including the long-distance traverse. From the park at Maison Constant you have direct access to several walking trails without needing the car at all.

Some recommended options for the afternoon:

• The climb to the Croix de la Libération: a five-kilometre route with a 360-degree panorama over the town.

• The Brisecou waterfall: a cool walk into a steep little valley, ideal on a hot summer day.

• The lakes of the Morvan: swimming, sailing and pedalos within easy reach for the afternoon.

More to see if you have the time

If your schedule allows, the surrounding area offers plenty more, both heritage and food.

Nearby: châteaux and villages

The country around Autun holds some genuine architectural gems. Just 15 kilometres away, the Château de Sully, birthplace of the family of President Patrice de Mac Mahon, is a spectacular Renaissance building with formal gardens, sometimes described as the Fontainebleau of Burgundy.

Food and wine

A stay in Burgundy would be incomplete without its food and its vineyards. Autun is not on the Route des Grands Crus itself, but the prestigious appellations are less than half an hour away, which makes a half-day of tastings easy to fit in.

Unusual and family-friendly ideas

For something different, the area offers experiences that work for adults and children alike. Families tend to enjoy the geocaching routes and the evening costumed tours run during the summer season. There are more ideas in our guide to a family holiday in Burgundy.

Practical advice for your weekend

A good weekend rests on sensible logistics. Autun is well placed for a short break: it is roughly two hours from Paris, taking the TGV to Le Creusot-Montceau and then a shuttle or taxi, which makes a two-day trip genuinely realistic without a long drive.

Once here, the historic centre is best seen on foot. For the Morvan or Bibracte, though, hiring a car or an electric bike is strongly recommended, since public transport into the park is limited.

Two days in Autun, condensed

Two days in Autun turn out to cover a remarkable amount of ground. Between the Roman remains, the refinement of its Romanesque art and the raw landscape of the Morvan, the town packs in more than its size suggests. The local tourist office can help with opening times and seasonal events.

Frequently asked questions

What are the main historic sites in Autun?

The essentials are the Roman theatre, the Temple of Janus, the ancient Porte d'Arroux and Porte Saint-André, and Saint-Lazare Cathedral with its celebrated Romanesque tympanum.

What outdoor activities are there around Autun?

The Morvan Regional Nature Park offers excellent walking, hundreds of kilometres of waymarked mountain bike trails, and forest sites such as Mont Beuvray.

When is the best time to visit Autun?

May to September is ideal, with mild enough weather to enjoy the open-air monuments and the countryside of the Morvan.

When is the local market in Autun?

The traditional market is held under the historic halls and on the Place du Champ de Mars every Wednesday and Friday morning, bringing together producers from across the area.